Conceal well- and there’s no need to carry!

by Amy Macgowan | Nov 13, 2013 | Instructor Training, PRO/STYLE

Has the onset of winter brought your eye circles to the forefront? It sure seems mine are worse these days!

In the ‘olden days' we called it cover up. Today, the cosmetic industry affectionately refers to it as concealer. Whatever we call it, done correctly, it can take years off our appearance. Done incorrectly, it simply draws attention to the very circles we were trying to conceal in the first place.

Color and formula are the two problem areas in concealing. Both are easy to detect and correct.

Eva's make up artist needs to be fired. Her concealer is WAY too light!

Color:

The easiest and best way to determine if you're using the right color concealer is to take a look at some recent photos of yourself taken in a variety of light. Does your eye area look super dark (need to conceal), quite natural and good (perfect- don't change a thing), or do you look like a raccoon (too light, too light!)?

Concealer that's too light is very common. The best example of raccoon eyes is Eva Longoria. I don't know who her make up artist is, but he/she should be replaced, STAT! Eva's beautiful, but the abuse of concealer not only distracts from her beauty, but makes her look like a cartoon character.

I've no idea where the ‘lighter is better' mentality comes from regarding under eye concealer. Daily I re-educate lovely women on proper concealer color choice. Concealer should be very close to our foundation color. In other words, it should match our skin tone! A good concealer will cover our dark circles and should match our cheeks in an even progression up to our lower lashes.

Here's a great tip/trick where light color is better: apply a light color shadow base to the eyelid.  Dark circles are a FULL circle that goes all the way around the eye. Concealing the eyelid prevents dark circles from casting a shadow back down on the concealed lower eye. Continue with regular eyeshadow application over the base.

A few more concealing tricks:

-apply concealer into the ‘divet' (inner corner of eye) and down into nose bridge

-make sure to take concealer all the way up to lower lashes and blend

-concealer should be blended into the nose mid way down

Formula:

When under eye circles are properly concealed, the effect can enhance natural beauty. Check out the difference between her left and right eye, and even more- the difference between how great she looks compared to Eva!

In my opinion, a concealer must have these four things:

1. It needs to actually cover dark circles (kind of a duh, but many don't)!

2. It must wear all day without reapplication.

3. It CANNOT, under any circumstances, settle in lines and wrinkles. (One pass with my finger after initial application is acceptable). Concealer congealed  in lines and wrinkles is worse than dark circles left alone and ages us as much as raccoon eyes.

4. The right consistency…not too dry, not too moist. It has to be j-u-s-t right. (Sounding like Goldilocks here!) If it's too dry, it looks chalky and draws attention to imperfections in the eye area. If it's too moist, it shines and the same problem exists.

How hard can it be to find the right color and these four attributes in a concealer. Turns out it's a challenge. Here are a few concealers I like and the reasons I like them for myself and my clients:

-Clarins Instant Light Brush-On Perfector ($34). This concealer works the best for me personally and is beautiful on many lighter skinned women. The 02 color is a perfect match for 90% of my Scandinavian clients. Instant Light contains rice peptides and oat sugars that help to smoothen and brighten under eye skin, so it doesn't settle in lines and wrinkles and it makes the eye area look better than before it was applied. Yippee! It's every bit as good as Dior Skinflash Radiance Booster Pen ($37) and lasts much longer. My only complaint is the limited color range. It's only offered in three shades- none dark enough for women of color :(. I hope Clarins will expand the color line in Instant Light. (It should be noted that Clarins introduced Instant Concealer $30 this past August that comes in shades for all skin tones. Reviews for Instant Concealer have been fantastic, but I like Instant Light so much I can't get myself to try it. However, it looks great on every customer I've put it on. Most purchase it).

-Exuviance Coverblend Concealing Treatment Makeup ($38). My second choice. It's not as lightening/brightening as Clarins Instant Light, but stands out because it's anti-aging and wears forever. The color range is HUGE, so everyone can get a proper match! It is very versatile and can be used as an all over face concealer as well. Wears well and doesn't settle. SPF20, and somehow it doesn't bother my eyes. A little goes a long way, so the tube lasts a very long time.

Lancome Effacernes Waterproof Concealer ($30). Until I tried Exuviance and then Clarins, this was my favorite. Good coverage, long wearing and it doesn't settle in lines and wrinkles. Until two years ago, there were only four color choices. Now there is an expanded color choice, so most women can find a color match. No bells and whistles. Just a great performing concealer that meets all the basic requirements as stated above.

Do you have a concealer you love? Let us know. I can't wait to hear from you.

*I receive no compensation for writing this. If I do in the future, I'll happily let you know. Maybe I'll get so much concealer I'll be invisible! 🙂

A Winter Wonderland Needs Winterizing

by Amy Macgowan | Nov 6, 2013 | Instructor Training, PRO/STYLE

Snow is predicted here in MN for later today. Oh joy! We're busy ‘winterizing' our houses, cabins, cars, motorcycles, bikes, boats, water toys, lawnmowers, etc. In fact, I ran down to the office to ask John if we'd blown out the sprinkler system yet. (After 25 years of marriage, we have a his/hers unwritten list of maintenance items for spring and fall. The sprinklers are a ‘his' item).

I got to thinking…what about ‘winterizing' ourselves? There are a few products I use in the deep, dark, cold and dry winter months that take some of the discomfort away. I want to share them with you with the hope you will comment and share your favorite ‘winterization' products as well. So many products…so little time (and money!), so we can help each other out :), and get through winter a little less scathed.

Dry peely lips? Try e.l.f. Studio Lip Exfolliator ($3). It's a sugar exfolliator stick infused with Vitamin E, Shea Butter, Avocado, Grape and Jojoba Oils to nourish and protect. How can you go wrong with all those natural ingredients and the price? Then I follow up with a favorite of my mom's: Mentholatum ($7.49 for 3 oz. at Walgreens). It's certainly not sexy, but I find it keeps my lips and nose from chapping. If you can't stand the taste/smell of menthol, another great option (with anti-aging benefits) is Clarins Extra Firming Lip & Contour Balm ($38). It contains Shea Butter, Raspberry Seed Oil and MaxiLip Complex that minimizes fine lines for smoother, fuller lips. Although it's not as price friendly as Mentholatum, you need very little. I've had my jar over 8 months.

Dry nose? My nose get super dry by January.  And it's dry inside and out (sexy, I know). No matter how ladylike I try to be, my nose  runs pretty much all winter long unless I'm in the Caribbean. As mentioned above, Mentholatum helps heal the outside at night and keep it looking good most of  the day, but I can't stand it inside my nose. And I don't want to smell like I'm treating a cold during the day. So, I use Lancome's Nutrix Soothing Treatment Cream ($50 1.9 oz.) Thanks to a Lancome Coordinator I had years back, my sore, itchy winter nose and nose bleeds are a thing of the past.  She showed me to put a dab of Nutrix on a Q-Tip and pop that baby right in my nostrils. Try it, it works!

Nutrix has an interesting history. It's the very first skincare product developed by Lancome in 1936. Lancome tried to discontinue it in the early 2000's and there was a mutiny from the masses. It's the ONLY product I've known Lancome to ever bring back from the discontinued list. It's still one of the most asked for classic products they have today.

Heading out into the tundra for some skiing/skating/snowshoeing? Skin/Wind protection is a must (second only to sun protection-which was covered ad nauseam here. Nutrix (as mentioned above) also makes a great barrier and protects against windburn when out in the elements. I also like Elizabeth Arden's 8 Hour Cream ($19.50 1.7 oz.). It gives the same great barrier that Nutrix does at less than half  the price. It also seems to do a good job of healing minor cuts. 8 Hour Cream is orange in color though, so be careful if you have light colored clothing anywhere near it. The original 8 Hour Cream has quite a peculiar smell, but glory be, it now comes in fragrance free! In the future, I'll be buying the fragrance free version and using it instead of Nutrix for all my winter needs. I slather it all over my face (after sunscreen) when I head outdoors for winter fun (an oxymoron, but you know what I mean!) It's a bit shiny, but worth it to not be windburned for weeks.

Flaky eyelids? It defies me how my eyelids can still be oily in the crease, but dry and flaky underneath, and in, my eyebrows. Last winter, finally- no flaky anything thanks to Clarins Super Restorative Total Eye ($82 .5 oz). You can read more about the benefits of this eye cream here. Suffice it to say that last winter, I had no problems and got all the anti-aging benefits from this product. Before finding Total Eye, the only product that worked for me was Lancome's Progres Eye ($59 .5 oz.). We called it Crisco for the eyes. It's another classic product (classic means it's not featured on the counter units and it doesn't have any new technology) that women buy 2-3 at a time because it's so intensely moisturizing. I found the best way to use Progres was OVER makeup. I couldn't use it before makeup application- it was to greasy!

Super dry face? It's possibly more than dryness. It could very well be dehydration. Here's how to tell: Take your index and middle fingers and push gently up between your jawbone and cheekbone. If you get a bunch of baby lines on the surface of your skin, you're dehydrated. I know we drink a lot of water, but that's hydrating from the inside out. In a harsh environment (like winter and flying), we also need to hydrate from the outside in. Clarins Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil ($50 1 oz.) does an amazing job of hydrating our skin. Used as a night time moisturizer (you can use it as your day moisture as well, but pure plant oils don't make a great primer for makeup), it re-hydrates skin amazingly well. It's one of the first 3 original Clarins products developed in 1954. Only 3 drops, warmed up in your hands and applied by placing and pressing, will make a huge difference in the skin's hydration level. I used it all last winter and I still have half a bottle left, so it's quite a value. I use my anti-aging serum underneath at night to still get anti-aging benefits while I sleep.

Dry, itcy skin? Me too! I've found adding a drop or two of body oil to my body moisturizer helps the itching and extends my body cream. Neutrogena Body Oil ($15.99 16 oz.) does the trick. It comes scented and unscented. When I really want to treat myself, I get Clarins Tonic Body Treatment Oil ($56 3.3 oz.). It contains pure plant oils- rosemary, mint and geranium and smells SO GOOD! Our house smells like the spa when I've used this oil. A little bit goes a long way with this oil too.

Cracked, split skin on your fingertips? Here's a tip from my dermatologist: take clear nail polish and seal the crack. It hurts a lot initially, but it finally seals up the crack so it can heal. I've tried liquid band-aid, but it doesn't seem as resilient as good old clear polish and it's just as painful upon initial impact, so I'm sticking with polish.

Hit us up with your winter saving favorites. I sure would like to know about them!

Update: It's snowing as I'm putting the finishing touches on this tonight :(.

*I receive no compensation for writing this. If/when I do I will happily let you know.

lue Orchid Oil

Elizabeth Arden eight Hour cream

Progres/total eye

The Eyes Have It

by Amy Macgowan | Oct 30, 2013 | Instructor Training, PRO/STYLE

Dark Circles…Puffiness…Wrinkles…Loss of Firmness…Dryness…

Every time I'm in store, women (and some men) ask for an eye cream that will truly addresses these issues.

Through the years, I've had the opportunity to try many (many!) eye creams. Some I've received as gratis (free from the companies I've worked for) and quite a few I've purchased. All with the hope they would actually do what they promise. From exorbitantly expensive eye cream (La Mer $185) to cheapo eye cream L'Oreal ($24.99), none did.

I got so discouraged layering 3 eye products (serum for puffiness, one cream for wrinkles and another for lifting and firming) that I quit the regimen altogether and resorted to smearing a bit of my face cream in the vicinity of my eye area. And guess what? Sadly, I noticed no difference when I quit my eye ‘beauty' routine.

Until I discovered-

(This is where I disclaim that I desire to be completely non-denominational and give many options in my reviews and opinions. And that I never, ever want to sound like an infomercial for any company/product.) But today, I only have one option to present to you…

Clarins Super Restorative Total Eye Concentrate ($82) .5 o oz. (referred to as Total Eye from now on). Total Eye is the best eye cream I've ever used myself, on clients, or with family (like when I put it on my sister and my nieces could not believe the immediate and long term improvement). My droopy eyelids are not so droopy anymore. The botox treatments I might have indulged in every 4-5 months for my crows feet, now only need refreshment every 9 months or so.

Why is Total Eye the best you ask?  It has to do with the product ingredients and the Draining Pressure Points Method of Application for Eyes.

Clarin's Total Eye contains the Forever Young plant (Pueraria Lobata). Harvested in China, it grows a foot a day. This crazy good cellular renewal process starts to happen in our eye area. Total Eye also contains Dermaxyl (a plant peptide complex) that boosts collagen production, along with shea butter for intense moisture and caffeine for dark circle reduction.

Here's the kicker: Total Eye is tear soluble, never migrates into our eyes, and is ophthalmologist approved for the entire eye area from lash line to lash line. It has to be in order to use the Draining Pressure Points Method of Application for Eyes, which releases excess fluids and toxins.

So now I use one eye cream, morning and night. Just a small pump (the size of a piece of rice) of Total Eye is needed. (More is not better, or more effective).  Used this way, one bottle of Total Eye will last 5.5 to 6 months. At $82, that's a darn good investment. No other eye product is needed. I also like that it's in a vacuum sealed bottle, so it remains sterile. I hate to think what happens to our product when we dip our finger in it over a period of 5 to 6 months……

Pop on over to your nearest Clarins counter and ask the Skin Care Specialist to show you the ‘5 Second Eye Lift'. She or he should be well versed in the method. Also ask them for a sample to take home. They should have one, or can make you one- especially at Nordstrom where they are equipped with their own sample jars. Apply with the Pressure Point Method and check out the immediate results that only get better over time.

Gone are the days of layering 3-4 eye products haphazardly on my orbital eye bone and hoping they'll work for me. I've finally found something that does work. I hope it does for you too!

Here's a list of eye creams/serums I've tried  and not seen results with. The list is extensive, but not exhaustive by any means. I've added comments when appropriate. I'd love to know what you've tried and what's worked. You can reach me: amyjo@groupfitnessradio.com

Caudalie Pulpe Vitaminee First Wrinkle Eye Cream ($49) .5 oz.

Lancome High Resolution Eye Refill 3X ($60) .5 oz.

Lancome Progres Eye ($59) .5 oz. Progres Eye is like Crisco for our eye area. I do like this eye cream for intense hydration in the winter months and used it for that purpose until I found Total Eye, which takes care of all my eye needs, including hydration.

Lancome Visionnaire Eye Advanced Eye Contour ($60) .5 oz. This is supposed to reduce the appearance of dark circles in 4 weeks, and also correct wrinkles and uneven texture around the eye area….nope.

Lancome Absolue Eye Precious Cells ($110) .5 oz.

Lancome Absolue Eye Premium Bx ($95) .5 oz.

Lancome Bienfat Multi Vital Eye SPF 28 ($39) .5 oz. I like the sunscreen element and will continue to use what I have left while on vacation. No anti-aging benefits. An okay general moisturizing eye cream with SPF.

Lancome Genifique Eye Light Pearl Eye Illuminating Youth Activating Concentrate ($68) .67 fl. oz.

Lancome Genifique Eye ($62) .5 oz. Remained sticky on my eye area all day :(.

Lancome Renergie Eye Multiple Action ($78) .5 oz. eye cream plus concealer. Funky consistency in the eye cream and the concealer wasn't the correct color in any shade offered and it creased like crazy. Never saw any of the 6 visible action corrections.

Lancome Renergie Life Multi-Action Eye ($68) .5oz. Allergic…red rash and flakiness all over my eyes. Yucky.

Clinique All About Eyes ($30) .5 oz.

Strivectin SD Eye Concentrate ($65) 1 oz.

Bremenn Upper Eyelid Lifter ($59) .5 oz.

Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Eye Capsules ($56) .35 oz.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Eye Advanced Anti-aging Serum ($100) .5 oz.

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Eye Ultra Protection Anti-aging Eye Cream SPF 15 ($100) .5 oz.

Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Plump Perfect Ultra Lift and Firm Eye Cream SPF 15 ($52) .5 oz.

La Mer The Eye Concentrate ($185) .5 oz.

La Mer The Eye Balm Intense ($185) .5 oz.

Loreal Revitalift Triple Power Eye Treatment ($24.99) .5 oz.

*I receive no compensation for writing PRO/STYLE- not even an eye cream to add to the list above :). If I do receive anything in the future, I'll let you know.